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chanel j12 DuoFace Timepiece Birth Of A Watch
•主題分類: watches      訂閱主題
•發表日期:2015/1/28 下午 03:09:00

About 3 years ago, I decided that the time had come for me to design and manufacture my own watch. I’d been collecting for more decades than I can remember, and I’m somewhat of a person of notoriety in the replica chanel j12 watch world. I’m a fourth generation watchmaker, had several high profile watch stores in California, and founded TimeZone.com, the first website dedicated to watches. I had also worked with a few well-known watch companies that created a limited edition watch series for TimeZone.com. So, this wasn’t my “first rodeo" of watches. I successfully designed, manufactured, and marketed my first watch under my new watch company, Rpaige Watch, in January of 2013, and I’m more than pleased with the success of my first official watch, The replica chanel watches. This watch utilizes an antique or vintage 12 size American pocket watch movement. I produced several dial variations of the watch, and then went full speed ahead with original antique dials using hunter case movements. The watches were made of steel or titanium, with exhibition see through backs. As the watch became more popular, and my sales started to take off, I kept hearing a recurring sentiment... "The movement is so beautiful, too bad you can’t wear the watch movement side up!”Never one to bypass a great challenge, I went about experimenting with different designs that enabled the watch to be ”reversible” so you can wear it either dial side up, or movement side up.I went through several different iterations of the case design, but none really gave me what I was looking for: a case design that stayed true to my design principles, yet kept the simplicity of engineering. I finally stumbled upon what I was looking for. In the 1980’s, I collected Gruen Drivers' watches, and these watches were designed to fit the wrist on the side of the arm, so that when racecar drivers wanted to clock themselves from their watch, they didn’t have to take their hands off the steering wheel. These watch cases were very curved, and were even named “Curvex.” But not all the case curvatures would fit all wrists, so Gruen added another dimension by “articulating” (hinging) the lugs. This allowed the watch to fit most all wrists, since the lugs could easily rotate further and further back towards the case. Since antique 12 size pocket watch movements are about 39mm, my case needed to be at least 44mm in diameter. The original drivers' watches were all rectangular in shape and usually never exceeded 36 mm in length. But by utilizing the hinged “articulated” lugs, I could now realize my dream of being able to reverse the hinges either way the watch is facing. Now came the fun part. All watches are curved to some degree for arm comfort. The lugs usually curve down towards the wrist to conform to our rounded arms. I needed the watch to be equally comfortable either face up or face down. By balancing the placement of the lugs towards the middle with no bias towards the back or front, I achieved the right weight balance for the watch. Then, by designing and creating articulating lugs that are “designed finish” on all sides - meaning, the lugs are fine polished and have a finished bevel on both sides - I was able to manufacture the watch that could be reversed! The last necessary design point was that I needed to have the sapphire crystals flat on both face and back so that it would lay flat on the wrist either side up.Keeping the philosophy of continuing to use original antique and vintage dials with the pocket watch movements was a challenge in this new design. The 12 size pocket watch movements were produced between 1895 and 1930, then, in the 1930’s, the wristwatch came into popularity, and most men stopped wearing the pocket watch - kind of like making the transition to a smart phone, it’s hard to ever go back to a regular mobile phone. However, in the beginning stages of the introduction of the 12 size movement, the hunter case design was very popular. The hunters Case watch had a cover, and by pressing the crown it hinged open the cover to read the time. Since these were worn in the vest pocket, the crown was always at 3 o’clock, making it easier to read when holding in the hand and looking down at the time.

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